In the interest of future estimation I’ve found that .5 gallon of linseed oil will cover about 100 square feet. That is, straight, with out mineral spirits. This is on a relatively smooth floor. The next coats were cut 20 -45 % with mineral spirits. In total I’ve placed 4 coats of linseed oil increasing the spirit content as I went along. The oil container was left to sit out in the sun for the day, so the oil was warm but not hot. The oil was applied with a paint brush with great success, sometimes dumping oil on the floor and working it around. The earthen floor really soaks it up. Especially to first two coats. Before I was done with the first coat of oil it was ready for the next. The linseed container says 12 – 18 hours before ‘dry’. The next day I added more. It didn’t soak in as much, but it added a shiny coat. Windows open and waiting… god that stinks.
I’m interested in alternatives to boiled linseed oil. The stink seams to stick around for awhile. There’s organic raw linseed oil with out the noxious ‘drying’ chemicals. Perhaps in the future I’ll try that. Linseed, Walnut, Tung, Hemp and Perilla oils are all hardening or ‘drying’ oils. They create a chemical reaction with oxygen, leaving a tough, elastic film. Citrus oil instead of mineral spirits may cut down on the stink factor as well. Remember! Rags and tools covered with oil can and WILLspontaneously combust.
After the oil has had time to cure, I’ll give it a coat of wax. I hear tell of a linseed oil, carnuba wax, beeswax, paste wax mix. Also a 50/50 linseed oil and carnauba wax mix. Straight linseed and beeswax. I’d like to experiment more with the super fine shiny finish. This time I’m going to use the Howard Feed-n-wax citrus oil and beeswax product for the final touch.