The City that Feeds Mexico City


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Categories: Food

Surrounded by volcanic mountains on Mexico City's high plateau, the footprint of Central de Abasto measures a whopping 327 hectares — making it just slightly smaller than New York's Central Park.

The traffic jam to enter the world’s largest food market begins around 3 a.m. Trucks of all sizes stream in, heavy with oranges from Veracruz or chiles from Chihuahua, manned by drowsy drivers who left their hometowns the day before to make the trip. Imported cargo arrives via shorter daily runs from the neighboring international airport, and still other lorries cross several countries via the Pan-American Highway to sell their goods at Mexico City’s Central de Abasto.

Open 365 days a year, this mega-market welcomes over 350,000 visitors daily. It formally employs 70,000 people and informally many more, including over 12,000 cartilleros — delivery men with dollies — each day. The market handles more than 30,000 tons of food daily, representing approximately 80 percent of all the food consumed in the metropolitan area and about 30 percent of the food consumed in the country.

Emilio Santana has worked in Mexico City's Central de Abasto market for three years, after moving to the capital from his home state of Hidalgo. He is delivering vegetables to a client in the parking lot, who will truck them to a roving street market in the northern neighborhood of Indios Verdes.

Feeding a city of 21 million inhabitants is no easy task, which is why this market has its own zip code, an independent governing body and even its own 700-man police force, which comes in handy considering more than $9 billion changes hands annually, mostly in cash. This makes Central de Abasto one of the largest economic centers of operations in the country, second only to the Mexican Stock Exchange.

Designed by architect Abraham Zabludovsky, Central opened its doors in 1982 in Ixtapalapa, southeast of the city center. The project grew from necessity: The former wholesale market, La Merced, had overwhelmed the centro historico with traffic and lacked the necessary infrastructure to deal with the growing demands of the city. Of the market's eight major sectors, Central's fruit and vegetable area is the largest. Forty interwoven aisles stretch 140 acres, with 64 interior loading docks. All in all, that's the length of 105 football fields, each piled high with produce. Most aisles sellmayoreo, wholesale quantities of 5 kilos or more, but several aisles provide minudeo, smaller quantities for the general public.

In corridors I-J, vendors sell retail to the public in small quantities. This service was not available 10 years ago, meaning a customer who wanted to make guacamole would have to walk several football fields to gather all the ingredients.

Hangar-style sections outside boast even cheaper prices. The subasta (auction) area, closed to the general public, hosts the first step in the chain of sale as middlemen negotiate prices for full trucks of produce directly with providers. Giant arched metal roofs top the open-air flower and vegetable area, where growers sell a variety of fresh goods to other vendors or directly to the public in a morning frenzy. Both areas are picked clean of merchandise by 8 a.m.

Left: Enormous plastic bags of processed cereals and snacks can be found in the grocery and supplies section. 

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